Another Printing Disasters—and How to Avoid Them story, complete with cautionary tales and disaster avoidance tips.
Blue Cautionary Tales
Last year I had two annual reports at press at the same time. One book had heavy black coverage, but dried just fine. The other had heavy blue coverage and took two extra days to dry!
On another project, the blue ink appeared to be dry, so the printer proceeded to die cut and trim the sheets. The result? The ink offset or rubbed off from one page to another on the finished product. All of the pieces had to be reprinted—at the printer’s expense.
When I worked at Nordstrom, the primary brand color was a very dark blue. Over those two years, I spent a lot of time waiting for ink to dry!
The culprit in every case? Blue. Reflex blue.
It’s in the Ink formula
So why do some blue inks dry so slowly? The answer lies in the ink formula. Every spot color is mixed from some of the 14 mixing colors: yellow, yellow 012, orange 021, warm red, red 032, rubine red, rhodamine red, purple, violet, blue 072, reflex blue, process blue, green and black.
These mixing colors consist of pigment mixed with binders such as vegetable oil. If you’re an artist, you may recognize several of the pigment names. Many of these pigments are minerals which react in characteristic ways. Rubine red is known for shifting in hue as it dries; reflex blue is infamous for impeding drying.
Take a look at the mixing colors located on the first few pages of a Pantone Color Formula Guide. Then look at the formulas shown at the bottom of every blue chip in the guide. Blues that contain the largest percentage of reflex blue, such as Pantone 288 (12 parts reflex blue + 4 parts process blue + 1 part black) will be the most slow to dry.
Disaster Avoidance Tips
What to do about reflex blue? These tricks have worked for me, and some do not cost extra:
- Specify synthetic reflex blue in the ink mix. It may be charged as a special mix, adding $35–$50.
- Ask the printer whether reconfiguring the ink mix is advisable. Drying agents can be added to speed drying, but other considerations, such as holding detail in fine tints, should be weighed. You may be charged for some press downtime and an ink unit wash-up.
- Have the printer print small lifts. These shorter stacks of paper allow more air to circulate and gasses to escape, to facilitate drying. Adds to run time on press, but I’ve never been charged extra for it.
- Print on Friday and allow the sheets to dry over the weekend before printing side B or starting binding processes. (Here’s another case for adequate turn times!)
- Print with UV inks. The UV drier units dry the inks immediately. UV-ink- printed jobs can cost up to 20% more than conventional inks, but the quality is fabulous.
- Select a PMS blue that has less reflex blue in its formula. Designers won’t like this idea very much, but when the deadline will not budge, it’s an option worthy of consideration—and it’s free.


8 comments
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March 3, 2010 at 11:27 am
rafael armstrong
Huh! I had never really– in all my years working with print– given much thought to the effect the mix itself had on drying.
I’ll have to keep that in mind for future print jobs.
Thanks!
March 3, 2010 at 11:38 am
naniprints
Hi Rafael, Glad I could add to your printing encyclopedia. I love it that there’s always something new to learn, even if it may not be all that fun at the moment—like when you’re hanging around, waiting for ink to dry. Over the past few years, there’s been a lot more corporate orange than corporate blue, so the problem may be less prevalent until blue comes back into fashion, as it undoubtedly will.
On that reflex blue annual report job I mentioned, my rep said, “I don’t care if this job IS a fairly short run, next year we WILL l run it on the UV press!”
March 3, 2010 at 11:59 am
Tyler Ashcraft
I think it’s important to reiterate that this is typically only a problem in heavy coverage areas. Another solution is to seal the sheet with an aqueous coat, even if you are using uncoated stock. This will add some resistance to rub and offsetting.
Good post! Rarely does anyone beside in-plant job planners consider this type of thing.
Tyler Ashcraft
Account manager
Bridgetown Printing, Portland Oregon
March 3, 2010 at 12:14 pm
naniprints
Hi Tyler, Good idea to seal the sheet. Aqueous coating on uncoated may introduce sheet stretch, though, so weight, surface, hold-out, and recycled fiber content should be assessed before going that route. I’ve had offset on sealed sheets, too. The third example I cite was a coated dull stock, sealed with aqueous.
When I work with graphic designers, heavy coverage is pretty much a given. In my experience, they loooooooove big solids. So not only are we talking big solids here, in most cases we’re also talking double bump (two hits of) blue ink.
March 4, 2010 at 4:07 am
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April 13, 2010 at 5:06 pm
naniprints
Funny: Someone found this blog yesterday by searching on “Why does blue ink never dry?”
April 21, 2010 at 6:59 am
Aileen
I just found your blog through PaperSpecs and I am going to share it with my department.
You should be required reading for every Print Production professional.
I’ve also had aqueous coatings change the color of Reflex Blue, even though every printer I’ve ever worked with swears it never happens to them, only on my special, magical jobs.
April 21, 2010 at 10:42 am
naniprints
Hello, Aileen, Wow, thank you for your stamp of approval for my blog! I’m glad you’re enjoying it and passing it along to your colleagues.
Stories like yours about coatings changing the color of reflex blue just go to show that printing can never become strictly a commodity. Never underestimate the alchemy of print! ~Nani